The Story of Chettinad Jewellery and Its Making
The Story of Chettinad Jewellery and Its Making
Chettinad is more an art than a place. It is a hub of artisans who turn everything they touch into a unique piece of art. This individuality is reflected in their architecture, designs, and jewellery. Like telling the stories of years of Chettiar’s journey, each piece and its creation is unique. The travels of ancient Chettiars influenced the intricate designs of houses. It is like a mixed implementation of the various styles and patterns they have seen from multiple countries and
places.
Chettinad
Chettinad, in Tamil Nadu, is a cluster of 75 villages inhabited by the Chettiar people. They were initially from Poompuha and came to Chettinad. Even today, the locals of Chettinad make authentic Chettiarr jewellery and preserve their culture and the beauty of creation. The jewellery they create is unique and cannot be made authentic by anyone else.
Story of Chettinad Jewellery
Jewellery handed down through generations has an emotional beauty standard associated with
it. According to the locals, Chettinad jewellery can be classified into three categories:
● Religious
● Ritualistic
● ornamental.
When the Chettiars were merchants in Burma, many Burmese rubies were brought to India, and jewellery was made with them in Chettinad. Today, the contemporary world loves and passionately wears these jewellery designs, often completely worn out of fondness. Later, when the Chettiars stopped being merchants, the rubies were replaced with diamonds.
Specialities of the Designs and the Making
The kings of that era wore designs that are still being made today. The floriated vines, peacocks, hamsa (swans), and mango motifs are some of the most interesting and popular motifs and designs used to make this jewellery. The designs are separately handcrafted and created into complete pieces of jewellery from pure gold, with rubies and diamonds. It reflects the craftsmanship of goldsmiths and is purely handmade with attention to detail.
There is no specific catalogue for making these pieces of jewellery; they are purely handcrafted and not machine work. Each piece is designed individually, contributing to its overall beauty.
The Diamond Era of Chettinad Jewellery
As the Chettiars could not return to Burma, the jewellery evolved into a second stage, with rubies replaced with diamonds. Diamond jewellery was made using the “traditional close setting” pattern. This crafting style helps maintain the lustre of the jewellery for decades. The resale value of these designs is also very high. Years of experience are needed to implement this technique.
Here is how the traditional close-setting diamond setting is done.
Step 1: First, the gold is beaten into thin strips.
Step 2: The designs are craved with carving tools.
Step 3: Diamonds are close set.
Step 4: Polished to perfection.
Ancient Chettinad Men's Jewellery
Men of that time wore rings and chains, often featuring solitary diamonds or emeralds. A significant religious piece is the “Gowri Sangam,” associated with the function known as Upadesham Kerkuardu. All men of a certain age go to a guru to learn mantras during this function. Once they gain this knowledge, they must wear the Gowri Sangam, which is worn on the chest like a religious piece of jewellery.
Kazhutheeru, a Ritualistic Piece for Women
Gowri Sangamam and Kazhutheeru are important jewels found in every Chettinad house. Kazhutheeru is a ritualistic piece of jewellery, essentially a thali. Kazhutheeru is an auspicious thread worn by married women. It is unique to Chettinad and cannot be found anywhere else. It is kept as pieces and not assembled in the yellow thread until the wedding. The central portion of the necklace is the thali itself. At one time, Kazhutheeru weighed about 1.5 to 2 kg of gold, but now it is made with around 15-20 sovereigns. It was not just given as ornamentation but also served as security for women in times of need.
Conclusion
Chettinad jewellery is not just ornamental but also a reflection of the region’s rich heritage and the artistic prowess of its artisans. Each piece tells a story of the Chettiar community’s traditions, values, and skills developed over centuries. It continues to symbolise heritage and cultural identity, celebrated in traditional and contemporary contexts.
Are you excited to try it on? Visit Regal Jewellers to get authentic Chettinadjewellery, which offers these artistic pieces at the lowest making charge and highest purity and trust.
